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	[[Category:Mohan Spintex India Limited]]		[[Category:Mohan Spintex India Limited]]
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			{{Short description\|List of definitions of textile industry terms}}
	This '''glossary of textile manufacturing terms''' explains vocabulary used at [[Mohan Spintex India Limited]] (MSIL) and across the [[wikipedia:Textile industry\|textile industry]]. It is written for people joining the company from outside the industry. Figures for MSIL's own equipment are from the company's published information.<ref name="msilhome">{{Ref msilhome}}</ref>		This '''glossary of textile manufacturing terms''' explains vocabulary used at [[Mohan Spintex India Limited]] (MSIL) and across the [[wikipedia:Textile industry\|textile industry]]. It is written for people joining the company from outside the industry. Figures for MSIL's own equipment are from the company's published information.<ref name="msilhome">{{Ref msilhome}}</ref>

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This '''glossary of textile manufacturing terms''' explains vocabulary used at [[Mohan Spintex India Limited]] (MSIL) and across the [[wikipedia:Textile industry|textile industry]]. It is written for people joining the company from outside the industry. Figures for MSIL's own equipment are from the company's published information.<ref name="msilhome">{{Ref msilhome}}</ref>

{{Hatnote|In the [[wikipedia:Units of textile measurement|Ne (English count)]] system a '''higher''' number means a '''finer''' yarn: 60s is finer than 30s.}}
== Spinning ==
;{{Anchor|Blowroom}}Blowroom
:The first stage of spinning. Cotton bales are opened, cleaned of trash and mixed to an even blend before carding.
;{{Anchor|Carding}}Carding
:Separating fibres to a near-individual state and forming them into a continuous rope called a sliver. Removes short fibres and trash.
;{{Anchor|Combing}}Combing
:An optional extra step after carding that removes more short fibres and neps. Yarn made this way is '''combed'''; yarn that skips it is '''carded'''. Combed yarn is finer, smoother and stronger - and costs more.
;{{Anchor|Compact spinning}}Compact spinning
:A modification of ring spinning that condenses the fibre bundle before twist is inserted. Produces yarn that is stronger, cleaner and noticeably less hairy.
;{{Anchor|Count}}Count
:How thick or fine a yarn is. See '''Ne'''.
;{{Anchor|Doubling}}Doubling
:Combining two or more yarns into one. See '''Ply''' and '''TFO'''.
;{{Anchor|Drawing}}Drawing
:Combining several slivers and drafting them to even out thickness variation.
;{{Anchor|Lea}}Lea
:A fixed length of yarn (120 yards) used in strength testing. See '''CSP'''.
;{{Anchor|Nep}}Nep
:A small tangled knot of fibres. Neps show as visible specks in fabric, so removing them is a quality objective in carding and combing.
;{{Anchor|Ne (English count)|Ne}}Ne (English count)
:The standard count system for cotton yarn. It is the number of 840-yard hanks per pound of yarn.
;{{Anchor|Open-end spinning (rotor spinning)|Open-end spinning}}Open-end spinning (rotor spinning)
:Spinning in which fibre is fed into a rapidly rotating rotor rather than twisted on a ring frame. Much faster and cheaper than ring spinning, producing bulkier yarn at coarser counts. MSIL has '''6,272 rotors'''.
;{{Anchor|Ply}}Ply
:The number of single yarns twisted together. <code>40s/2</code> is two-ply: two 40s singles twisted together.
;{{Anchor|Ring spinning}}Ring spinning
:The mainstream spinning method. Roving is drafted to final thickness and twisted into yarn by a traveller moving on a ring. Gives the highest strength and best appearance. MSIL has '''1,21,488 ring spindles'''.
;{{Anchor|Roving}}Roving
:The lightly twisted intermediate product fed into the ring frame.
;{{Anchor|Sliver}}Sliver
:The continuous untwisted rope of fibre produced by carding and drawing.
;{{Anchor|Spindle}}Spindle
:One yarn-producing position on a ring frame. Spindle count is the standard measure of a spinning mill's size - MSIL has '''1,21,488'''.
;{{Anchor|TFO (Two-For-One twisting)|TFO}}TFO (Two-For-One twisting)
:A twisting machine that inserts two turns of twist per revolution, used to make plied yarn. MSIL has '''4,800 TFO drums'''.
;{{Anchor|Winding}}Winding
:Transferring yarn onto cones while electronic yarn clearers detect and cut out faults.

== Weaving ==
;{{Anchor|Air-jet loom}}Air-jet loom
:A loom that carries weft yarn across the fabric on a burst of compressed air. Very fast, and well suited to wide lightweight cotton fabric like bed linen. MSIL has '''324'''.
;{{Anchor|Beam}}Beam
:The large roll holding thousands of warp yarns at the back of the loom.
;{{Anchor|Drawing-in}}Drawing-in
:Threading each warp end through its drop wire, heald and reed. This sets the weave pattern.
;{{Anchor|Ends}}Ends
:Warp yarns - the ones running along the length of the fabric.
;{{Anchor|Greige (grey fabric)|Greige}}Greige (grey fabric)
:Fabric that has been woven but not yet bleached, dyed or finished. Pronounced "grayzh". Still contains the size applied before weaving.
;{{Anchor|GSM}}GSM
:Grams per square metre - the standard measure of fabric weight.
;{{Anchor|Picks}}Picks
:Weft yarns - the ones running across the fabric width.
;{{Anchor|Plain weave}}Plain weave
:The simplest interlacing, one over one. Strong and stable; the basis of percale bed linen.
;{{Anchor|Reed}}Reed
:The comb-like part of the loom that spaces the warp ends and beats each pick into place.
;{{Anchor|Sateen}}Sateen
:A weave where warp yarns float over several wefts, giving a smooth lustrous face. Common in premium bed linen.
;{{Anchor|Sizing}}Sizing
:Applying a protective film to warp yarn so it survives the abrasion of weaving. Removed later by desizing.
;{{Anchor|Thread count (TC)|Thread count}}Thread count (TC)
:Ends plus picks per square inch. The number quoted on retail bed linen packaging. Useful, but yarn quality matters more - see [[Products of Mohan Spintex#Fabric|Fabric]].
;{{Anchor|Twill}}Twill
:A weave producing diagonal lines on the face. Denim is the best-known example.
;{{Anchor|Warp}}Warp
:Yarns running lengthwise in the fabric. Held under tension on the loom.
;{{Anchor|Weft}}Weft
:Yarns running across the fabric width, inserted during weaving. Also called '''filling'''.

== Processing ==
;{{Anchor|Bleaching}}Bleaching
:Removing the natural colour of cotton to give a uniform white base for dyeing.
;{{Anchor|Calendering}}Calendering
:Passing fabric between heated rollers to smooth it and add lustre.
;{{Anchor|Desizing}}Desizing
:Removing the size applied to warp yarn before weaving. The first wet step.
;{{Anchor|Dyeing}}Dyeing
:Applying colour. '''Piece dyeing''' colours woven fabric; '''yarn dyeing''' colours yarn before weaving, which is how woven stripes and checks are made.
;{{Anchor|Fastness}}Fastness
:How well colour resists fading - to washing, light, rubbing and perspiration. Tested and graded; buyers specify minimum grades.
;{{Anchor|Finishing}}Finishing
:The final treatments setting fabric handle and performance - softening, calendering, sanforising and functional finishes.
;{{Anchor|Mercerising}}Mercerising
:Treating cotton under tension with caustic soda. Increases lustre, strength and dye uptake.
;{{Anchor|Sanforising}}Sanforising
:Compressive shrinkage applied in advance, so the finished product does not shrink significantly when the consumer washes it.
;{{Anchor|Scouring}}Scouring
:Removing natural waxes, pectins and impurities from cotton.
;{{Anchor|Singeing}}Singeing
:Burning off protruding surface fibres so fabric is smooth and prints cleanly.
;{{Anchor|Stenter}}Stenter
:The machine that holds fabric to width while drying, heat-setting or applying finishes.
;{{Anchor|ZLD (Zero Liquid Discharge)|ZLD}}ZLD (Zero Liquid Discharge)
:An effluent system in which no liquid waste leaves the site - water is recovered and reused, solids are separated for disposal. MSIL recovers '''98% of process water'''. See [[Sustainability at Mohan Spintex#Water|Water]].

== Make-up and commercial ==
;{{Anchor|CMT}}CMT
:'''Cut, Make, Trim''' - a manufacturing service where the customer supplies the specification and the manufacturer supplies production. See [[Home textiles division#Cut, make and trim|CMT Services]].
;{{Anchor|Duvet cover}}Duvet cover
:A removable washable cover for a duvet or quilt.
;{{Anchor|Fitted sheet}}Fitted sheet
:A sheet with elasticated corners shaped to fit over the mattress.
;{{Anchor|Flat sheet}}Flat sheet
:A plain rectangular sheet with no shaping.
;{{Anchor|FOB (Free On Board)|FOB}}FOB (Free On Board)
:A shipping term. In textile trade it usually signals '''full package''' supply - the manufacturer provides fabric and trims as well as labour, rather than working on customer-supplied material.
;{{Anchor|Made-ups}}Made-ups
:Finished sewn textile articles - sheets, pillowcases, duvet covers, quilts - as distinct from fabric sold by the metre.
;{{Anchor|MOQ}}MOQ
:Minimum Order Quantity.
;{{Anchor|Vertical integration}}Vertical integration
:Owning consecutive stages of the production chain. At MSIL: spinning, weaving, processing and make-up under one company. See [[Mohan Spintex India Limited|About MSIL]].

== Quality and measurement ==
;{{Anchor|Classimat}}Classimat
:A system classifying rare yarn faults by size and length, letting mills and buyers describe yarn defects in a common language.
;{{Anchor|CSP (Count Strength Product)|CSP}}CSP (Count Strength Product)
:Yarn count multiplied by lea strength. A traditional combined measure of yarn strength.
;{{Anchor|CV%}}CV%
:Coefficient of variation - a statistical measure of how much a property varies. Lower is better and more consistent.
;{{Anchor|Hairiness (H)|Hairiness}}Hairiness (H)
:The amount of fibre standing out from the yarn surface. Compact yarn scores low, which is why it looks and feels cleaner.
;{{Anchor|Imperfections (IPI)|Imperfections}}Imperfections (IPI)
:Thin places, thick places and neps counted per kilometre of yarn.
;{{Anchor|RKM}}RKM
:Yarn breaking strength expressed in kilometres - the theoretical length at which a yarn would break under its own weight.
;{{Anchor|U% / Unevenness}}U% / Unevenness
:Variation in yarn thickness along its length. Lower is better.
;{{Anchor|Uster Statistics}}Uster Statistics
:A published global benchmark database of yarn quality. Lets a mill state where its yarn sits as a percentile in a way any buyer worldwide can interpret. See [[Machinery of Mohan Spintex|Machinery & Technology]].

== Certification abbreviations ==
{{Main|Certifications of Mohan Spintex}}
{| class="wikitable sortable"
! Abbreviation !! Full name
|-
| BCI || Better Cotton Initiative
|-
| C-TPAT || Customs-Trade Partnership Against Terrorism
|-
| GOTS || Global Organic Textile Standard
|-
| GRS || Global Recycled Standard
|-
| IGBC || Indian Green Building Council
|-
| ISO || International Organization for Standardization
|-
| SCAN || Supplier Compliance Audit Network
|-
| SEDEX || Supplier Ethical Data Exchange
|-
| SMETA || Sedex Members Ethical Trade Audit
|-
| WRAP || Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production
|-
| ZDHC || Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals
|}

== References ==
{{Reflist}}

{{Mohan Spintex}}

[[Category:Mohan Spintex India Limited]]
[[Category:Glossaries]]

Glossary of textile manufacturing terms - Revision history

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